Whirlpool Washer Error Codes: A Reading Guide by Washer Type

A flashing code on a washer is the machine telling you where it noticed trouble, not telling you which part to buy. The same letters can mean different things depending on whether the washer is a top-load, a front-load, a compact unit, a laundry tower or an all-in-one washer-dryer. Reading a code well starts with knowing which kind of washer you own.

Many Whirlpool washers show codes in an F#E# style, where an F number is followed by an E number, and some use short letter codes like uL or drn. Others show a number with a letter, like E1 or A10, particularly on stacked laundry centers and compact units. In every case, write down the code exactly as it appears, including capital and lowercase letters, because the library treats them as separate entries.

Step one: find out which washer you have

Check the lid, the door opening or the cabinet edge for the model label, usually in one of those spots. Our guide on how to find a Whirlpool model number walks through it. The code library groups entries by washer type, such as top load, front load, compact front load, laundry towers and all-in-one washer-dryers, and the type decides which entry applies to you.

Codes common on top-load washers

Top-load entries tend to concern balance, lid and water level.

• uL and ofb describe off-balance loads that need redistributing by hand.
• oL says the load is too large.
• HC means the hot and cold inlet hoses have been installed incorrectly, which is a hose swap you can often verify by looking.
• drn and Ld describe a washer taking too long to drain.
• F3E1 says the washer cannot detect the water level.
• F0E8 describes too much residual water in the washer.
• Sd means excess suds, and the washer runs a suds-reduction routine.

Codes common on front-load washers

Front-load washers add the door lock, the dispenser and the drain filter to the list.

• F20 and FH are described as a water inlet problem, with no or insufficient water supply.
• F21 indicates a drain problem.
• F22 is a front door lock issue, and F5E2 says the door is not locking properly.
• dET means the detergent dispenser cartridge is not detected.
• SUD says there are too many suds.
• rL indicates that items were detected in the washer during the Clean Washer cycle.

Compact units, towers and stacked laundry centers

Compact front-load washers have their own entries, such as A09, a water inlet problem, and A10, a drain problem. Stacked laundry centers use the washer section entries E1 for a water level not reached, E2 for a washer still draining, and E4 for a lid opened during the spin cycle.

Laundry towers use a long list of F#E# entries that name a potential cause, for example F5E3 for the door switch and F8E4 for the flow meter. These describe a place to look, not a repair order.

All-in-one washer-dryers

An all-in-one washer-dryer has a combined entry set, because one drum washes and dries. For example, F9E1 says the unit is not draining in a timely manner or at all, and F0E3 says temperatures are too hot during the dry cycle. In a San Francisco flat where this single unit does all the laundry, a stalled cycle usually affects the whole household, so these are worth checking early.

Codes that only give reset steps

Some library entries are marked as listed on Whirlpool Product Help with reset steps and no stated cause. F7E0 and Lid are examples. When an entry reads like that, it means the sources do not give a meaning. Do not assume one. Reset once, note whether it returns, and pass the code to the technician.

What you can safely do with any code

• Write the code down and take a photo of the display.
• Check power at the outlet and breaker.
• Look at the hoses for kinks and make sure the water valves behind the washer are open.
• Clear anything visible from the lid or door edge, and clean the drain filter on a front-load washer if it is accessible from the front.
• Reduce the load and mix heavy with light items.
• Do one controlled power reset, wait a short while, and rerun a small cycle.

If the code returns after that, the cause is not something the owner can reach from outside. Do not open panels, test live circuits, or bypass a switch. Burning smells or sparks mean power off at the breaker, and no further attempts.

How a code turns into a repair

A code narrows the field. A technician looks at the wiring, the sensor or the part the entry mentions, confirms it, and checks whether the cause sits elsewhere, such as a kinked hose or a supply valve. For a drain code, the pump, hose and standpipe are all in play. Our guide to a washer that won’t drain shows how that plays out.

The visit starts with diagnosis. You get a written estimate, and nothing is repaired without your approval. See our Whirlpool washer repair page for how a visit runs, and the Whirlpool washers guide for the lineup and label locations.

Top-load examples like the WTW5015LW and the all-in-one style entries above show how much the washer type matters when you look up a code. Always match the code to your own washer’s type first.

Frequently asked questions